Training
All Dogs Can be Trained
We highly recommend that dog owners put some time into training their pet. A well-trained dog is always easier and much more enjoyable to live with. We have provided some training tips for you. However, if you feel that you would do better with some hands on help from a professional dog trainer, please call us and ask for Caroline. She will be able to direct you in the right directions.
Training Tips
- Basic Commands
- Being a Good Neighbor
- Biting, Chewing, & Digging
- Crate Training
- Excessive Barking
- House training
- Preventative Training
Come
When using the "come" command, the owner should first call the dog by name followed by "come". This will help get the dog's attention so that they will be more attentive to the next command. It will also let the dog know that the owner is speaking directly to them and not to someone else. Always encourage your puppy to "come" with enthusiastic praise and lots of encouragement. Keep in mind that no two dogs or puppies are alike so you will have to adjust your training methods according to the individual. Try to avoid calling him in a threatening tone as he may associate this with being scolded. If he begins to ignore you and act as if he does not hear you, attach a long leash to him so you can reel him into you after you give him one command to "come." This way you are not repeating the command and your dog will learn to come when he is called.
Heel
One of the most important things to keep in mind with this command is to make yourself more interesting than anything else around you during your walks. Give your dog a reason to stay with you, talk to him, give him a "sit" command, stop, make him lie down for one second, make it an interesting walk. Begin your walk by telling your dog to "heel"; use his name first to get his attention and be very enthusiastic as you give the command. Do not forget to talk to him so he pays attention to you, praise him when he is in the correct heel position, which is dog on your left, his right shoulder should be in line with your left hip. If your dog insists on pulling ahead, work with him in small counter-clockwise circles. This will encourage him to pay attention to you as you are walking. Play with him in your backyard and allow him to burn off some excess energy before you try to take him out for a controlled walk. Do not let your dog eliminate anywhere he chooses. This type of behavior is also known as a "leader" behavior, which allows him a feeling being in charge and could also lead to "territorial"behavior.
Using "Off" to Prevent Jumping
Dogs will jump up on people for one reason: to get attention from you. Teach your puppy or dog to "sit" for attention or praise of any kind. When he jumps on you, use your lowered tone of voice and lean towards the dog saying "off." He will have no choice but to back away from you and when he does, teach him to "sit" by firmly planting his bottom on the ground. Offer him calm praise for obeying you. Soon all you will have to say to your dog is "sit" and he will comply readily because he knows he will be rewarded.
Training Tips for Preventing Jumping:
Attach your leash to his collar so he can’t jump on you and run away. Tell him "off," now "sit" (help him into this position), now praise him calmly. Offering too much excited praise will reinforce his bad habit, so be calm in your praise. However, you cannot expect him to be calm if you are talking to him in your cutest baby talk.
Trick for Treats
Here are some ways you can treat your dog to better training:
- Treat and train your pet after a play session.
- After a rousing game of fetch, let your dog know who's in command and reward him with a treat.
- End every grooming session with a treat.
- Teach your dog the reward of good grooming by giving him a treat after brushing.
- Never give a treat without a trick. Always make your dog obey some kind of command before rewarding her with a treat.
As you enjoy your pet's companionship, a little extra effort on your part will teach him to be a good neighbor. Ideally this should begin when your pet is young. However, at any age, a dog can be trained to obey at least the basic commands. The best way to teach your dog obedience is to attend a dog obedience school. There are also many good books on obedience training,
Many communities have "pooper scooper" laws requiring owners to clean up after their dogs. Law or no law, cleaning up after your dog reflects your consideration for others.
Daily walks can be a treat for both of you when your dog is trained to walk quietly at your side on a loose leash. This on-going training helps you control your dog so it won't jump on people or on other dogs.
A barking dog can become a neighborhood annoyance. Excessive barking is frequently the result of boredom or anxiety when a dog is left alone for long periods of time. Regular walks and play periods with your dog and teaching it tricks will help prevent boredom. Click here to learn how to prevent excessive barking.
Proper identification enables someone to contact you if your pet wanders far from home. Dogs should wear collars with an identification tag as well as have microchip identification. To learn more about the microchip, click here.
Biting & Chewing
Dogs often chew to relieve stress and excess energy. If your dog chews on something that is off-limits, say "no" or "eh" in a low voice. Then immediately give your dog a safe chew toy. Praise him for good behavior. Remember to give your dog safe chew toys instead of old household items like old shoes, because that could encourage him to also chew on new shoes. You will also want to avoid rough play and games like "tug of war" as this can encourage aggressive behavior.
Digging
Just as there are many reasons for digging, there is no single solution for changing this particular behavior. In some instances, the instinct to dig is the heritage of the breed. Some dogs, regardless of heritage, may be more inclined to dig if they are left alone in the yard for long periods of time. Without the stimulation provided by regular play and exercise, dogs often turn to digging or other forms of “misbehavior” to alleviate their boredom. A dog that is pushed outdoors after he misbehaves in the house may continue his misbehaving by digging in the yard. Controlling your dog's behavior inside addresses that problem as well as unacceptable digging outside. During summer months, if your dog digs a hole to cool himself, consider providing a cooler location for him such as an umbrella or some other shade throughout the day and make sure fresh drinking water is always available. Some dogs will dig under a fence to get out of the yard. Ideally, a fence should fit tight to the ground or even be buried a few inches underneath to prevent a dog's crawling or digging out from under it. If you find it virtually impossible to discourage your dog from digging, provide him with a "digging area." When your dog digs in this designated area, praise and reward him with attention or a treat. If your dog digs outside this area and is caught in the act, a firm "no" is usually a deterrent.
In this aspect of training, as in all others, family members must work together as a team. One overly indulgent family member can create problems by not cooperating in training a dog.
Crate training is not putting your dog/puppy in a "cage" or "jail", and you are not being cruel if you follow these tips. Dogs feel secure in small, enclosed spaces, like a den. Dog crates make excellent dens. A crate offers your dog security, a den with a roof, and a place to call his very own where he can go to get away from it all. It is also a safe place for him to stay when you're away or when you cannot watch him. There are basically just a few steps in crate training and they are as follows:
- Choose a crate the same size as your puppy/dog. He should only have enough room to stand up, turn around and lie down. His crate is for sleeping or for a safe place to be when you cannot be with him. If you have a large breed puppy, you may have to buy two different size crates or purchase a crate with a divider you can move as he grows.
- Use a single-word command for your dog to enter his crate and throw in a treat or piece of kibble. When he enters, praise him and close the crate door. Gradually increase the time he spends in the crate before you let him out.
- Remember, your dog still needs time to play and eliminate. Maintain a regular schedule of trips outdoors so as not to confine him too long.
- As a general guide, your puppy can stay in his crate comfortably for several hours, depending on his age. Take his age in months, add 1, and that's how many hours he should be able to stay in his crate (up to about 8 hours). For example, a 2-month old puppy should be comfortable in his crate for about 3 hours.
- Providing your dog or puppy with a crate that is way too large may allow him to relieve himself in one end and sleep in the other. Placing food or water in his crate will allow him to fill up his bladder and bowel and he will have no choice but to relieve himself in his crate. Make sure you take your dog or puppy outdoors to eliminate on a regular schedule and especially prior to being left for prolonged periods of time. Always take your dog outside on a leash to the same area in your backyard to eliminate so you can praise him when his job is finished. This will take the guesswork out of his visits to the backyard.
Also, don't forget to play with your dog and exercise him. He needs this kind of stimulation for his mental and physical wellness.
Barking that is a behavior problem may result from one of several different issues. The key is to first identify the cause of the barking and then to change your dog’s triggers.
Loneliness Barking
When loneliness is the cause of incessant barking, giving your dog more attention may solve the problem. In a family situation, encourage family members to take turns playing with your dog and taking him for walks. When he is left alone, provide toys for him to amuse himself. Sometimes more attention won't solve the problem. If your dog has developed a habit of barking, place some pennies in a can and tape it shut. When he barks, shake the can near him and say "quiet" in a firm voice. The purpose of shaking the can is to startle him. If the barking resumes, shake the can again and say "quiet." Keep the can away from him so he does not consider it a toy. As your dog catches on, your verbal command "quiet" should stop the barking. If the can does not work, use a squirt bottle to squirt your dog's legs and back accompanied by a firm "quiet" command. Please remember — any action to deter your dog from barking must be made while he is barking. After-the-fact corrective action only confuses him. Use a strong, firm voice. Avoid yelling, which can be stressful to a dog.
Separation Anxiety Barking
Dogs housed inside who are left alone may suffer from separation anxiety. Some may show their fear and resentment by barking. The ideal way to prevent this problem is to train a puppy to be left alone. Similar training can be applied to an older dog, but more time and patience may be required. Put the puppy in a room by himself. Say "quiet" and leave the room. If the puppy barks, return, say "quiet" and leave again. If the puppy is quiet for a brief period, return and praise him. Extend your time away from the puppy and, upon returning, praise him for being quiet. With an older dog, leaving the house or apartment may be necessary because the dog may pick up your scent and is sensitive to familiar noises.
Territorial Barking
Some dogs bark to protect their territory and a "bark/reward" cycle may be established. A dog who barks at a letter carrier when the mail is delivered is "rewarded" when the letter carrier leaves. This bark/reward may lead him to bark at other service people, neighbors and passersby. If possible, introduce your dog to people who come to the home regularly. Short conversations with delivery or service people, with your dog present, may solve the problem. Another solution is a firm "no" or "quiet" when your dog begins barking. If he responds by being quiet, praise him briefly. Remember, you have to be present when he is barking to give the "quiet" command.
Other Barking Behaviors
Often a dog will bark in an invitation to play. This is accompanied by body language — tail-wagging, crouching with the head lowered and hindquarters raised. Barking usually stops when play begins or the invitation goes unanswered. A dog may bark to threaten intruders. This is usually a more menacing bark and may be accompanied by growling. Depending upon the situation, you may need to move the dog to a more secure location or quietly reassure him. A dog will also bark to warn other dogs or people of danger. The barking generally continues until the source of danger is removed or the dog is taken to safety. Sometimes pain or illness triggers barking. If a well-behaved dog in his usual environment begins barking or creating other forms of vocalization, a trip to the veterinarian may be in order.
A final thought
As with all aspects of behavior training, consistency is the key to success. Enlisting the cooperation of each family member is important in controlling your dog's barking, as well as in all other aspects of training. Verbal commands and expectations for your dog's behavior must be consistent if you are to be effective.
A dog or puppy is either housetrained or not. Unless you can catch him, it really does not do any good to drag him off to the site of his mishap and try and punish him. Keep your dog in sight and if he is bold enough to try something in front of you, say "No," get his attention, and take him outdoors quickly so he can finish eliminating in the appropriate area. Remember, it is your house. He has to earn his freedom through good behavior and this is your responsibility.
The first step in house training is to decide whether your pup will be trained to only eliminate outdoors or have the option of using a dog litter. If your dog will be trained to eliminate only outdoors, start by establishing an elimination spot. In the morning, clip his leash to his collar and take the dog outdoors to his spot for elimination. State commands like "go potty" or "hurry up." After he does his duty, bring the dog inside for food and water. About 15 to 20 minutes after the meal, take the dog outside again for elimination. Take your dog to his "spot" at each elimination time and maintain a regular feeding, drinking, and elimination schedule.
One of the most commonly made errors in house training is rushing too quickly ahead of your dog. Too much freedom too quickly can cause some confusion. If your dog experiences an accident or two, you should back up and slow down your training efforts. Marking should not be confused with house training problems because marking is deliberate. It is advised that if you notice this behavior indoors or out, you should strengthen all obedience commands immediately.
Providing your dog or puppy with a crate that is way too large may allow him to relieve himself in one end and sleep in the other. Make sure you take your dog or puppy outdoors to eliminate on a regular schedule and especially prior to being left for prolonged periods of time.
If you have tried all the above and are still experiencing what you believe to be "Territorial Marking," consult your veterinarian. Your dog/puppy may have a bladder infection and it's always best to be safe, not sorry. If your dog/puppy is not spayed or neutered, you may want to talk to your veterinarian about this procedure. It usually has a very positive effect on this type of behavior.
Even well-trained dogs sometimes have accidents. Clean the accident area with a pet odor neutralizer so your dog won't be tempted to repeat his mistake. Here are some tips to help prevent accidents:
- Do not make sudden changes in his diet.
- Avoid giving your dog late night snacks.
- Make sure to spend enough time outdoors.
Preventive training means you try to prevent your dog from exhibiting inappropriate behavior by keeping an eye on him when he is with you, or by keeping him in his crate or a puppy/dog-proofed area when you cannot keep an eye on him.
The methodology behind this type of training is if your dog does not get an opportunity to exhibit an unwanted behavior, you do not have to modify his behavior or use negative training methods. This type of training requires more participation from the owner as far as constant supervision and consistency, but in the long run, preventive training is far less stressful on both owner and dog. This training method has two advantages: It sets you up immediately as the pack leader; and It expedites the bonding between you and your new "friend."
If you bring your new puppy home and just turn him loose in your house, in a matter of maybe five minutes he will have carried off as much as he could stuff in his little mouth, and chewed up what he could not.
On the other hand, if you chose to train in a preventive manner, you would only allow your puppy or dog in the room you are in and you would have a supply of proper chew toys ready for him when the need arises. If you catch him chewing on something he should not have, such as your draperies, you would distract him by saying "NO" in a very firm tone of voice and then offer him a proper chew toy along with praise so he will associate the praise with the appropriate chew toy. Remember dogs/puppies understand about three tones of voice along with body language and eye contact. For example:
High-pitched, excitable tones would be very effective for motivating your dog/puppy (for coming to you when he is called or for heeling properly). This tone also reminds him of his littermates (this is why children have a difficult time winning the respect of a dog/puppy, since they sound like equals).
Matter-of-fact tones are excellent for giving commands to your dog/puppy (same tone as a bark - calm, direct, no urgency).
Lowered tones, which would simulate a growl from mom (which means whatever it is you are doing, stop it now). Remember, yelling or striking your dog/puppy will only confuse him and cause him to mistrust you. Dogs/puppies do not understand being hit or grabbed. They will only learn they cannot trust you or to fear you. They will understand direct eye contact, tones in your voice or your body language, so use it to your advantage. Direct eye contact can mean you are looking at your dog lovingly and he will exchange your glance. Or when giving a dog a good long stare in the eyes after he has just jumped on you and you have told him "OFF" the stare means "I mean business."
What about body language? Do you have a puppy who cowers when you approach him, maybe even squats and urinates just a little? You do not hit him, so why does he do this? The way you move toward a dog can be a threat in itself. Are you a lot bigger than the dog? Do you move quickly? Do you bend towards him? Why not try to encourage the dog to come to you, squat down on his level so you are not so threatening; use a piece of his dog food or a favorite toy to convince him to come closer. Pet him when he gets very near you (do not reach out), make sure you praise him for showing courage.
All too often people console their dog/puppy when he shows signs of being frightened, which is a normal human reaction. However, to a dog/or puppy, this only confirms his fear. For example, your child drops a metal lid from a cooking pan onto the hard surface of the kitchen floor. Before you can blink an eye, your dog/puppy has thrown himself under the nearest piece of furniture shaking uncontrollably. Instead of pulling him out and consoling him (which would be the same as saying to your dog/puppy "It's okay to be afraid"), try enticing him out with a treat, laugh, be positive. Your dog/puppy will pick up on your mood. Show him he has nothing to fear.